dshall Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 1 hour ago, Dermot said: Technically, there is no way to turn off framing headers and still get the header labels. If you set the header fill style to "none" and the line style to "invisible", they are essentially hidden. I think Michael has worked it out. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRAWZILLA Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 18 minutes ago, dshall said: I think Michael has worked it out. I think I have also worked it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kbird1 Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 2 hours ago, Chopsaw said: Thanks Mick, I assume you suggested that we need defaults for independent upper and lower header "caps" as well as control of the spacing and position of the headers based on your cross sections ? Most of my contractors are now framing the way you do but it is a lot of work making everything look correct for them. I did not ask specifically for independent control of an upper and Lower Header Cap , I provide a cross section and a couple of photos from the Net, I can add that request though , wish I had some better Photos of field work for Brian, he has replied now and the Request has been added to one already in the Database. Mick, I think what you are asking for is more control over how the headers are built. Control over spacing, alignment, and the contents of the header. I have added this request to an existing request in our database for these items. Thanks Perhaps Others should add their Requests too since the Squeaky Wheel gets the Oil and all that... you know for X12 along with a new Stair Tool ( and ML ) ***Eric has started a post in Suggestions too... to add your 2c worth too. https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/topic/16473-chief-built-framing-assemblies/ M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kbird1 Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 has anyone else had an auto header rebuild itself to CA's Default style after trying to alter one as I did? not sure if this is an X10 issue or cos it is a Legacy X9 Plan converted M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan_Son Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 On 1/15/2018 at 4:02 PM, Kbird1 said: has anyone else had an auto header rebuild itself to CA's Default style after trying to alter one as I did? not sure if this is an X10 issue or cos it is a Legacy X9 Plan converted M. Are you talking about the header or its label? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kbird1 Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 The header itself ..... after moving the inner header member against the outer one and adding the top and bottom cap to do the section above (test) I noticed the Inner member had moved back to it's original auto build position flush to the inner face of the stud. It's possible my x9 template plan is playing Havoc once again , or I did in fact do a framing rebuild while trying different hings here in the thread and forgot about it. I had thought (wrongly?) that once we manually moved or altered a framing member that it was no longer included in an Auto Rebuild , so may need to be more careful and use the Retain wall framing box in the Wall's DBX. M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wjmdes Posted January 18, 2018 Author Share Posted January 18, 2018 I have been doing house plans since I was 16, and headers always had a 1/2" gap between them and they used to fill that gap with plywood (glued and nailed). No top or bottom except for the cripple studs. I walked a few sites yesterday and the headers were flush on both sides here in Georgia. The way Chief is doing the headers is what I am used to seeing for a very long time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kbird1 Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 19 minutes ago, wjmdes said: I have been doing house plans since I was 16, and headers always had a 1/2" gap between them and they used to fill that gap with plywood (glued and nailed). No top or bottom except for the cripple studs. I walked a few sites yesterday and the headers were flush on both sides here in Georgia. The way Chief is doing the headers is what I am used to seeing for a very long time. Here at least it has been many years since we were allowed 2x4 exterior walls , 2x6 is Code here, it's the only way to get the reqd Wall Insulation Factor , unless the Client can afford 2lb Spray Foam. We did at one point Frame like that but soon found it was faster and cheaper to just add a bottom cap to the two Headers peices and keep the header flush to the outside. now we do the same with 2x6 walls but found it easier to cap the top as well and leave the recess for the insulators to fill. ( technically the foam would be better on the outside I guess to keep the Header warm , but generally that is not going to happen as most framers won't deal with it. I actually like the header against the top plates too . sure makes things easier in a Reno if you want a larger Window. M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wjmdes Posted January 18, 2018 Author Share Posted January 18, 2018 Curious as to where Eric and Mick are located...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kbird1 Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 Arizona and Canada......brrrrrrr chilly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan_Son Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 41 minutes ago, solver said: The last place I framed, the headers were built like this, only with the opening out and filled with foam. Less work to build and much better insulating. The only time I use a built up header like is shown above is in a shed or other uninsulated utility space, and then they go up against the top plate eliminating any cripples. Exactly the same thing we do around here 90% of the time too except that the header is usually a 4x12 and the lower 2x6 doesn't continue over the top of the trimmer... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kbird1 Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 7 minutes ago, Alaskan_Son said: Exactly the same thing we do around here 90% of the time too except that the header is usually a 4x12 and the lower 2x6 doesn't continue over the top of the trimmer... you must be from the land of big Lumber 4x12 wow.... I like the header upto the plate too , and most Inspectors are happy with it from my experience , but I don't see us getting that Option anytime soon from CA. M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRAWZILLA Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 Around here we only use solid 4 x headers which has some energy efficiency just be being thick, never use the double headers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe_Carrick Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 14 hours ago, Kbird1 said: I like the header upto the plate too , and most Inspectors are happy with it from my experience , but I don't see us getting that Option anytime soon from CA. I just set it up in Defaults. But you have to coordinate that with the door and window heights and the ceiling heights so that it all works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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