mydog8it

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Posts posted by mydog8it

  1. I'm backlogged. I'm looking for a freelance designer/drafter to help with revisions to existing stock plans. Payment will be on a per-project basis. I'll send a list of changes/additions the customer would like to make to a plan, you quote a fee and time frame to complete. Payment schedule is negotiable, but a percentage of your fee as job milestones are completed seems to make sense.

     

    I'd like to work with someone that has at least 3 years experience with residential design and Chief Architect, and is familiar with contemporary/modern styles and southwest construction - manufactured trusses, mostly monolithic slabs, parapets or low roof pitches. I draft my own sections (I don't use CA's auto-detail for those) so you'll need some CAD skills to edit those as well. You must have your own current CA license. My plans are in X2 - X10, so having some older versions on your system would be a bonus but not required. You must be willing to sign a non-disclosure agreement.

     

    Send me a private message with your contact info if you're interested!

  2. 11 hours ago, Alaskan_Son said:

     

    Yes and no.  The edge of the shear panel is where I would consider it to be most important, but it's really just the spacing in general that I'm referring to.  If for example we are framing at 24" on center, I want to have a stud at every 24" increment no matter what.  I will personally very rarely shift stud spacing for anything.  If there is no stud on layout it can cause problems for insulation, wall sheathing, wall coverings, siding, trim, and all sorts of other things. 

    Got it. This is super helpful. Thank you!

     

    31 minutes ago, Kbird1 said:

     

    Thanks for the video Glenn , that cleared things up for me a bit better on what was happening.

     

    @mydog8it

      typically around here we now use 3 stud corners due to the insulation requirements and

    no U framing at Partition walls either for the same reason , just a 2x6 or 2x8 on the flat, though

    I usually add a stud to Partition wall backing to stiffen so it is L shaped, and leave my layout standard.

    Thanks- I was wondering about the partition walls, too. 

     

    8 hours ago, glennw said:

    Here is the video.

    I ran out of time with the 5 minute limit, but you can get the jist of it.

    I forgot to mention that you can obviously only get the U shaped framing in a Frame Through wall.

     

    https://www.screencast.com/t/B5IaHCRA7Kv

     

     

    Can't watch on my phone, but i will check this out when I'm at my desk :)

     

    1 hour ago, DRAWZILLA said:

    Around here edges of shear walls require a 4x4 post or 4x6 if 2x6 studs, even in the corners. I add them manually.

    Interesting. 

  3. 21 minutes ago, DRAWZILLA said:

    I have used Alienware for 15 years now , never had any problems but you do need a new one about every 5 years and sometimes you can last longer with changing out a few parts.

    They weren't always owned by Dell. But 5 years is a pretty good life span for a computer. 

     

  4. 9 minutes ago, Alaskan_Son said:

    I would personally want to see 4 things at an exterior corner like that...

     

    1.  A stud that lands ON LAYOUT for exterior sheathing and siding reasons as well as to provide proper bearing in some circumstances.

     

    2.  Drywall backing.

     

    3.  Something to tie the corner together in such a way that limits movement and therefore potential drywall cracks or screw pops in the future.  

     

    4.  A little less important, but access for insulation and wiring purposes.  

     

    There are a good handful of alternative methods, but in my opinion Chief has chosen what I feel is the single best compromise with that rotated end stud.  

    Thanks for the feedback! When you say "on layout," do you mean a stud at each edge of the shear panel?

  5. 20 minutes ago, ajrare said:

    You need a gaming computer, AlienWare

    In my opinion, asus rog (republic of gamers) is the most reliable gaming computer brand out there. I'm not a fan of Dell (which is Alienware).

  6. So, as far as best practice when actually framing the building, there would be a typical 3-stud California corner on each corner (without the "u" CA is adding), and the "frame though" would be on the bearing wall? I'd love feedback from any contractors on how this is actually done vs. rendered.

  7. Ahhh. So it only fixed it when I checked the box because when the corner changed directions, the stud spacing was different.  Thanks for the clarity.

     

    I measured the spacing on the corners with extra studs, and sure enough, they are greater than 16" oc. Apparently I have to move and re-align everything again. 

  8. 5 minutes ago, glennw said:

    Try Default Settings...Framing Defaults...Wall...Miter Ends of Angled Walls...Horizontal Frame Through.

    Uncheck Horizontal Frame Through.

    Interesting - I had it unchecked, but I just tested it again and checking that box fixed it.

    It also rotated all of the corners.

    Thanks :)

  9. This plan is in X8. I haven't downloaded X9  yet...I really need to get on that before X10 comes out. lol

     

    Thanks for the tip on the framing reference points. I've already moved/aligned/centered everything on this one, but I'll check it out if I have to do a wall framing plan again. I don't do them for the same reason-framers won't even bother to look at it. 

  10. 2 hours ago, Renerabbitt said:

    I'm running a g752 and stays at proper temps during 4 hour full presto renders using 100%gfx and CPU together

    My old computer is the older version of that. I love it. The only upside to this smaller one is portability.

  11. I don't typically do wall framing plans and haven't used the auto wall framing tool before. Does anyone know why it would frame 2 corners of a rectangular building with a normal California corner, autowallframing1.thumb.png.6d51cfc36a7ea55deaaa4e19bb23f291.pngand the other two like the second image? autowallframing2.thumb.png.9157d4f2bf0cd2def863bb28607e2c7c.png

  12. I was going to get this one: https://www.asus.com/us/Laptops/ROG-G752VS/  but I decided to try out this one at half the price: https://www.asus.com/us/Laptops/ROG-GL553VD/  with 32g ram.

    So far I'm pretty happy with it, especially for the price. No overheating, no lag when viewing really big renderings, and overall pretty fast. I haven't raytraced yet though.  My biggest complaint so far is the case is a little cheap and plastic-y feeling... and I need to plug in a bigger monitor for doing actual work. 

  13. 13 minutes ago, DavidJPotter said:

    I bought a G75 ROG at Best Buy last year to be my second computer. My old desktop (specs listed below) runs faster than the newer laptop but as a second PC it is fine. If it were my only PC I would NOT be happy as it is just adequate, if I only used a laptop for all my work I would want something a lot faster.

     

    DJP

    That's interesting. I think mine is a G72 and I've been pretty happy with it, but I've upgraded the RAM & video card and added a big SSD.

    Any problems with your G75 overheating?

  14. Is anyone running CA on one of the 7th gen i7 Asus ROG laptops? How's it working?

    I'm considering either the G series or the GL series. My biggest concern is overheating, and I'm not sure which would be a better option. I have an older G series now, and from time to time I have to put an ice pack under it when I'm raytracing. I'm hoping one of the newer models will have a better cooling system.

  15. I've noticed everything slows way down once I add electrical, terrain, and some furniture. I do those in a separate file from my construction sets now. "save as" then add all of that. Or, if I don't need fancy 3D models I use CAD blocks for electrical instead of symbols. If the lot is flat I use a polyline solid for the lot surface/perimeter instead of creating a terrain perimeter. You can also use CAD blocks for outlets and switches, and just put in actual light fixture symbols. That helps, too.

  16. Maybe I'm not understanding, but if you open that camera view and just either double click the little vector view icon or open the Rendering Technique Options dbx, you should be able to just adjust the shadow intensity there.

     

    Thank you. 'Technique Options' did the trick. I knew it had to be something ridiculously simple. :)

  17. Has anyone found a way to edit the shadow intensity for an existing/saved vector elevation? I changed the defaults under camera > rendering techniques, but that only seems to apply to new cameras. I'm not seeing an option to edit the shadows under 3d > edit active camera, just to turn them on and off.

     

    Sidenote: The elevation shadows look amazing! Well done, CA. 

  18. A recent client decided to add a pool at the end of the project, and the grading/drainage engineer made quite a few changes to accommodate. We also went through five or six variations on exterior color schemes, landscape & hardscape options. Needless to say, that plan exterior was re-rendered A LOT. But you're right, most plans are not.

     

    yes, it would be nice if there was x-ref capability and the master plan was auto-updated

    if the "sub" plan was changed

     

    That actually might be nice for things other than terrain, too, but it's not something I'll complain about. I'm just excited to finally be getting frameless corner windows in x8 :)

  19. Todd:

     

    Glenn probably has the "way"

     

    but for me I find it easier to have the plan in a separate plan

    and then save it as a 3D symbol

     

    then place the symbol into the master terrain plan

     

    I only do this if there is complex terrain or multiple buildings in the master

     

    this method seems to avoid all the "hassles"

     

    Lew

    That probably makes your plan much faster, especially with complicated terrain, but I would get frustrated re-blocking and placing the home back on the terrain every time the client wanted a change.

  20. I think you're making it more complicated than it is. If you open the terrain perimeter and check the boxes to "flatten pad" and "hide terrain intersected by building" the gaps below and mounds of dirt inside will go away. This gives you a flat pad under your building. Unchecking those boxes will let you see how the building interacts with the unaltered terrain so you can see where you need cut and fill. 

  21. I would open the line that is your '100ft' line and verify what elevation CA has that line set at. Then open your terrain perimeter and uncheck the 'automatic' box under 'building pad > subfloor height above terrain' and match the building pad to the elevation of your 100ft line. If your 100ft line is set at elevation 1200" (100'), your subfloor height above terrain would be 1200".

     

    Example:  I have a plan with an elevation line that represents 1943 ft in real life, but in my plan it is elevation 36".  In my case, I wanted the slab at 1943, so I set my building pad 'subfloor height above terrain' to 36".

     

    By unchecking the boxes to 'hide terrain intersected by building' and 'flatten pad', you'll be able to see the areas that need cut and fill.