MarkMc

I believe that is where this thread started. It is a library containing one Style Palette named " Hardware" , import it into chief (name has spaces to start so it ends up at the top of the user library). Once in library select it and click on a base cabinet it will paint the attributes onto the cabinet similar to dropping hardware on....see what it does. Then go back to the object in the library, right click it, open object, click the gear symbol (set properties), when that opens select "Help" or hit the F1 key. When in doubt (even when not) open all dialog boxes (DBX) and or go to Help (F1) That way you'll be up and running in not time (though some Chief training is worth every penny

The P.O.is New Paltz but am actually closer. Physically in Modena.

Do mean proximity fixed? First string is set to 18, second string is set to 36. Both were pulled over the cabinets Then start to drag and snaps to the fixed distance

You are using a wall elevation. There is a wall where you get dimensions but an invisible wall behind the island. Change to a backclipped section. OR setup a default set to do cabinet elevations manually (that's what I use instead of auto dims but you need several for different sets conditions so you can just click and drag) Snip 2- could copy one camera in place, move forward, change technique to line drawing no squiggles or such and gray lines. Stack the two in layout.

An oddity here is that rotating a pull in the main "Door/Drawer" tab of the DBX has no effect. It must be done from the "Front/Side/Back" panel. Front side back panel below @DaniellaZV once you have one cabinet you are happy with make a style palette that only uses the hardware. Then you can paint other cabinets with it. (sample attached) Hardware only SP.calibz

As a KD I always drew at least the adjacent rooms though sometimes just added windows etc. approximately. If I had prints always drew the entire structure. It's just too fast and easy in CA and often got me more work from the contractors or architects. (Also great to show the client what thing look like from other spaces or entering the front door.) Sometime took photo from doorway to next room. Placed a billboard with the image just past the doorway in plan. Billboards outside sliding doors and large windows too. Allways had at least a full exterior, roof and foundation which can help with renderings. Roof also helps avoid issues when venting out. For larger projects my preference was to draw the entire house. Easier to see spacial relationships. If multi story helps avoid problems. After switching to remote drafting for others I had a lot of larger projects. Usually continued to draw entire structure. I prefer tracing a dwg when possible. If supplied with a PDF I converted that to DWG (now adays I use AB Viewer for that) Have always had a separate cad program (TurboCad Deluxe, AB viewer) so I could turn off layers or delete unwanted clutter before importing into Chief. Not always necessary if file has layers but often converted PDFs don’t. In any case makes life easier. In all cases import the dwg into a CAD detail in Chief. A separate plan is a good idea. Then copy and paste to working plan. I had one client that just drew separate rooms which has pros and cons. On the one hand it can be easier, on the other can be annoying for renderings and does not show relationships of spaces. It can be easy to miss the effect structural changes in revisions have on adjacent spaces. (Note that there was a project with several ceiling height changes on the same floors. The person that drew separate rooms had never learned how those are done and had a hard time making their revisions until they understood) One other thing I fiddled with a bit at the end was to draw entire structure. Then save as. The purpose was to allow different cabinet defaults in separate plans. The downside though was the aforementioned structural changes needed to be done on each plan. I eventually ended up just using style palettes for different styles in other rooms with the kitchen set for the cabinet defaults.

Reference display- defined a layer and applied to objects, selected reference dispaly (F9) then "change reference floor display (ctrlm, shift, g) copied the layers set and changed to only show what is wanted.

IF you keep working in the folder they sent you there is no need to associate textures since Chief will be looking in that folder. To do that: In the existing folder copy the plan file, rename it and use that to create the as built. Not exactly. The method Scott suggests will copy ALL of the textures not just the ones not in the library. One way to deal with it if it's important to get the new textures is: Copy the plan file to a different folder and open it in Chief. Then create a backup that includes "All referenced files" \A DBX will pop up that says One or more files needed for this export could not be found. That will be a list of textures not in the library (well mostly, you may have some of them but Chief can't find em. Do a screen shot of the list, then go to Plan Materials, ctrl select the noted textures and "Add to Library" An easier solution would be to ask the supplier to name all custom textures in a way that they are easy to find. I often use a space and the first few letters of the project. The space makes the texture show at the top of the list in Plan Materials. (Note the WGH2_3 back listed- that goes back to when I first though of doing that for clients some years ago)

No, 3D imports will always be a symbol. You have to draw in Chief. Depending on version of SU, could export a 2D dwg (or pdf floor plans) of each floor then trace in CA. You will be able to snap to lines of a dwg but not a pdf.

I get that though it does clear eventually. My solution is to assign keyboard shortcuts to all rendering techniques. If I want to move, adjust anything I switch to standard view (VS for me) then back to RTRT (VP for physically based). EZ, fast, no lock up. Handy going to glass house to find lost things too.

Changed closer to settings from vert lights I use. Changed sun and backdrop intensity. Altered glass in left cabinet which works in Standard view. Replaced glass in right cabinet with opening no material for RTRT. Standard RTRT Vert lights.zip

Aside from making separate symbols on way would be to: make a material for the mullions set as stretch to fit. First you have to make the glass area of the material blank in a photo program then save as png Then.. Make a custom door symbols from a wall cabinet, that is" 3/4" thick; separations set to what you need in the job; reveal set to 0; Front is side panel inset with a slab door- use the mullion material on the frontuse a single slab door for front, Back of cabinet also a side panel inset but a custom door symbol that is a slab 1/4" thick set Y origin for it to offset 7/16 into the cabinet. Make that glass. I did a quickie just using your graphic to see what it would look like resized. Didn't take the time to go to photo editor but have done that in the past. Here is how you Gothic Mullions (hoops) resize.

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00099/accessing-your-archive-files.html

Did this for someone some years ago but couldn't find it. Here's one way, I already had most of the parts. Didfn't bother to add the custom drawerbox but should give you some ideas. The front side tape might be better done using side panels but this works too. Stretchers are put into the back so you have to adjust them to work with the front. Personally I wouldn't bother with it. Was a KD for a few decades and never needed this level with anyone (some 2 dozen suppliers) I got cabinets from. If I did on a regular basis I would use a dedicated cabinet program. I suppose the stretchers could be easy enough if we were allowed to use a custom symbol for separations. I'd rather see time spent elsewhere though- like splitting up front, sides and back in Style Palettes Stretchers and edge banding.zip

Placed Chiefs door in blank plan. Open object (X15 would be open symbol in earlier versions) 3D tab. Change smoothing angle to something over 90, I used 130. In a 3D camera view use the delete surface tool to delete just the mullions. When selected they highlight. Then save as symbol, cabinet door, set stretch zones for width and height. Plan attached with two symbols included. arch door.zip

I must have been out somewhere when this thread showed up. But has been answered before with method using two cabinets. PIA but can change to symbol or block though I never bothered. Can be cleaner if you also make shelf symbols to use in only one cabinet which I have for closets. In any case here's one variation. Open Corner.zip

Not sure what is going on with your's since no plan attached. This one works just fine. I left the room dividers visible for clarity. Might be an issue? Plan attached. elevation.zip

(Please fill out your signature with version, some computer info helps along the way-there are posts detailing this.) Yes by setting default label to "specify label" From there it depends on which version of Chief you are using. Once setting to specify label you need to have a nomenclature identifier, Like B for base, followed by a dimension macro set to the tolerance you want. This gets tricky when that nomenclature changes - like to 3DB. IF in X14 or above look for information on "number formatter: in the forum to see how to write a dimension macro. There are a couple of folks on the forum who sell a cabinet label macro that can account for "some" nomenclature. You could look into that- likely not expensive. BUT FWIW what is out there would not work for any of the brands of cabinet that I worked with. So find out what setting they offer for that before getting into it. There are ways to shortcut some of the process using with a library of user configured cabinets with correct starting nomenclature for each. That can be used with the "replace from library" tool or with style palettes -both of which are separate topics.

Split the front vertically. Add the shelves to the side with the opening. First set number of shelves, then distance between. Last set the bottom shelf distance from previous to match the bottom right side distance.

Converted a cabinet door to a molding, had to mess around a little with repeat distance and height was odd. curved wainscot.zip

OK got rid of it. I was hesitant at first anyway.

I have 2020 v9.1 (or 9 ??) Exe file and dongle but supposedly can't sell it ? Haven't used it since 2011/12. Even have a compatible copy of Envisioneer 7 or so. I prefer Chief.

I used a system where ALL of the information for any brand was contained in library objects (now style pallettes). This included methods to include details. That all ends up in a schedule. It can also automatically show up in a selected plan view. The schedule gets copied and pasted into a spread sheet. A little sheet manipulation then allows every: cabinet code, mod code, sides, hinging...whatever is needed to be placed directly into an on line ordering system. Most of the systems I came across allowed that information to be drag and dropped into it. It never took a full day, rarely 4 hours for a big job. Lot of modest kitchen orders were done in an hour or two including checking. With some though you could likely figure it out from that. OTOH... I can teach it to you and set it up to start (or completely per brand and advise for a while). Not free. I am away until August 8th. In Seattle tomorrow then no contact till the 8th. If you are interested email me or PM before by the time I am back. I intended to write up a booklet (not video but may include a little) with this and some of my other stuff but life gets in the way. Maybe get it done a little after IBS if you want to wait for the cheap way out. Edit- I should add that I also used part of this method to write orders for brands that did NOT have an online system but needed a printed order. The only difference was I had to put in prices. I may have a very old vid of placing order on line laying around somewhere. Consistently used this with QCCI, Mountaineer (basically Rich Maid codes, a lot like CWP),& Showplace. ...a few orders with both Luxor & Elmwood.

Try place a standard wall cabinet, add 3" (or more) to the depth & width change to corner cabinet/diagonal Place in corner Now place wall cabinets on each side.

Height is easier than width. (sorry I don't do vids) What I've found as fastes/simplest is to make the symbol a cabinet door. Place in back of the cabinet as a side panel inset. You will have to resize the back section to match the front IF the front changs. For width there is not good way around having multiple symbols BUT...I make them with a specific number of dividers and spacing. Then allow the left and right side to change to fit. Make the symbol from a cabinet and save the plan. It's the fastest way to make the symbol and allows you to change # of dividers, divider width and spacing. Offset the y axis by .3/4". Set a stretch ZONE for height the total height of the symbol. Set 2 stretch planes for width. One 1/2 for left edge, one 1/2" from right edge. That will allow you about 3-4" of width change per # off dividers (depending on how crazy you want to be. You could always make a new symbol) It's also possible to make only one door symbol the split the back section. (more: control, difficult, time). If you want to get tricky can use a combination of a single divider as a door and a multiple with set spacing. YMMV NOTE- these will NOT change depth. For cabinet depth make new symbol either using the original plan (easiest, fastest) or placing a symbol in plan, adjusting, then converting. Something similar can be done making a fixture symbol for a shelf. Managing materials can get tricky (don't use default or it will match your toilets) First set shelf spacing to previous as 0", close shelf DBX, re-open, select shelf you want, click ok when it says won't fit resize? Resizing height on that section requires redoing the shelf selection all over again but the back does not to be redone. Here is a run of assorted size cabinets. Dividers are 3/8 wide w/4" between. I'd say it works ok from 24-30". NOTE that IF you set the width to resize equally the spacing will resize BUT the dividers will also!!