Lakeside-E

Anyone know why the front wall is building down regardless of what height the floor is specified? Even selecting the window and manually dragging the bottom does not change anything but the sides. Second question, is there a way to add windows to the front of the box window like what is pictured?

Thanks

22 hours ago, Ebb001 said:

Yes, as with many online forms people are more interested in letting you know that you don't know how to search for things then they are with actually answering. I came across this also trying to figure it out. Half this software is trying to find work arounds

At least its only half. 

3 hours ago, DavidJPotter said:

PS: if you already knew this, try not to gloat or make fun of me for just finding out.

It's sad and frustrating that this is a valid concern... I see it all over the place, here and Facebook to name 2. Some groups are worse than others. You don't know what you don't know and people who share to help other out will eventually stop altogether when they are constantly trolled. Thanks for sharing BTW, I learned something

do you have some sort of a content list to give an idea what all is in there? The ones on the card looks high quality for sure?

Using the polyline method... obviously made separate for color reasons and to be able to overhang the cabinet side at will.

Using a custom molding profile for side fill and for countertop

Attaching the calibz file with molding profiles...

Molding line for both profiles is at the wall and these work for standard depth cabinets.

Set fill molding to the finished height of your base cabinet 

Set countertop molding to top of base cabinet height +.625"

Cabinet Fill molding.calibz

Slopped Countertop (15 degree).calibz

1 minute ago, GeneDavis said:

If you want the cab sides gabled, you're going to need even more time making p'solids.

if using x12 (maybe works as well in earlier but can't confirm) draw a polyline in 2d over the cabinets you want to affect in a straight line. convert to polyline solid and set the base height at the top of your cabinet box and the poly height to where the highest point should be. camera view. select side plane of polyline and adjust top "front" corner handle to base to establish slope. 

41 minutes ago, scottytaylor8 said:

I am designing a engineering office and they want a row of base cabinets installed in the plan room, but instead of  a standard flat countertop, they want the countertop installed at 30 to 40 degrees with a ledge at the bottom to hold the plans in place while working on them.  Is it possible to place a base cabinet and then install a custom countertop that is angled like I mentioned?

 

Thanks in advance.

Maybe someone with more experience than I have will know how to do this, but I would use polyline solids. the only way it would sorta bite you is an outside corner situation... Draw your base cabinet and from a side elevation shape the profile of your countertop and extrude it. 

Second thought that came to me while typing is to create a custom molding profile then lay out a molding polyline.

7 hours ago, divreig said:

I imported a Import a surveyor DWG file. I followed the instruction in the tutorial (Import a Surveyor DWG file for a Site Plan or Terrain Perimeter (chiefarchitect.com) . And got some strange spikes hills. I have tired cleaning up the elevation data but no luck. There is simply no elevation data in the area that is that tall, not sure what is generate this. Pleas see the attached pic and surveyor map. 

17045-Topo.pdf

17045-Topo-C.dwg

existing terrian2.plan

If this was the biggest anomaly you got from chief in terrain then that is amazing... its usually a crap shoot as Chief is pretty difficult to get terrains down to a t. I've had some work without a hitch then others look like a porcupine. I don't fully understand all of the adjustments but I've had fairly good luck with low terrain surface smoothing and higher  terrain surface triangle counts. I have yet to get retaining walls and such to work as desired

1 hour ago, AngeloInc said:

Understood! I read somewhere about the manual method, but wasn't clear on it! This was the solution I needed - Thank you!

glad to help

5 minutes ago, AngeloInc said:

 

Eric,

 

I have, but I keep getting results opposite of what I am trying to accomplish. I've adjusted the scale under "Texture", but it changes my pattern to 1:1 ratio even with the 12x24 as my scale! I'm not sure if there was a standard size to import created tile at, or if the scaling was done after the files are imported?

 

if you exported it as a 2:1 then imported it into chief that way, make sure when you adjust your size under texture that you have retain aspect ratio checked. otherwise count the number of tiles shown in your texture sourse image and do the math to what it should be and adjust it manually. should work

Here is a link to a video that really helped my roof game. this in conjunction with the Join roof planes tool are a great help. Also spend some time learning about setting walls to full gable and how you can tell chief before you auto build a roof specific roof plane pitches. 

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/728/locating-roof-plane-intersections.html

4 minutes ago, EngelsmaHomes said:

 

Sorry - I still don't follow. The wall and it's siding layer also cuts around doors and windows and roofs. How is it different than applying a different texture to the walls?

dimension your material region to not cut your material and give it the depth you need. set it up the same way you would use polyline solids then multiple copy it. no trimming necessary

11 minutes ago, stevenyhof said:

I think of it more as a car wash... in one side and out the other.

add some floor jets to get the undercarriage and a blower at the exit. 

8 minutes ago, robdyck said:

Better but major gable is still split and that is wrong... use natural breaks to change materials when possible or add a break (ie band board above minor gable garage door). Also note. Band board should be beefier to balance the appearance of the heavy timber and also flow better with the lok and natural breaks of the house. Make it closer to the height of the bird box...

44 minutes ago, robdyck said:

So I think I was right about the roof proportions being off. The hip roof was a 5:12 while everything else was 8:12...I changed it to 8:12.

And the large gable was placed at a totally random dimension...I moved it to 6' back from the wall with 18x8 garage door. I'd even suggest going to 18x9 just to fill up that space a bit more.

Good suggestions overall, I would comment that the trusses are a nice touch but where you ended the shake siding is still odd. I would design this exterior shake above fascia and move the band board at fascia height on the minor gable. If the shake is overwhelming try a james hardie straight edge for a little less movement or do a shake on the minor gable and a board and batton style on the major gable. 

1 hour ago, TheKitchenAbode said:

I've not done a real night scene for some time. From what I can recall, when you have the sun toggled on and the sun has a level of intensity the sun will affect the background and the model. If you then just toggle the sun off the background is still effected but the sun will not light the model. If you then turn the sun intensity to zero the background will go completely dark. There is no way using the sun to just light the model without lighting the background at the same time, and there is no way to adjust how the light is split between the background and the model.

 

For you situation I would suggest the following Toggle the sun off and adjust it's intensity to get the background looking the way you desire, I think that's essentially what you had in your first pic. To light the model place a 3D light off in the distance and up in the air, say 100 ft., use a spot and angle it say 20 degrees, set the spread to say 180. For it's intensity you will need to do this by trial and error, as a guide 100 lumens is about the equivalent to 1 Lux. This spot is now act as the sun that will light your model. Play with the shadows on and the drop rate to fine tune. As this is a sunset scene you might wish to add a color to the spot, a yellow/orange tone might work well.

Thanks for the suggestion. I never considered using an artificial "sun for my artificial sun. It would take some playing with but i'll keep it in mind. 

1 hour ago, robdyck said:

To add to Graham's suggestion, I'd recommend a specific light set for that view. I create light sets and name them to coordinate with saved cameras. 

ive got light sets made but didnt consider using a set per saved camera. thats a great idea. I wish there was a way to group lights together or use multiple subsets in a light set so you didnt have so many fixtures to select...

Select lights in a room or region, save as a subset. in your camera specific light set you can select the individual subset as a whole or open a drop down menu to select from the individual lights in that subset. Light figtures can belong to more than one subset if you choose and turning one off or on will affect it across all subsets it is apart of per light set. 

3 minutes ago, DzinEye said:

Looks like you need to fill up the pool! ???

 

Water bill got shut off... No, it is actually filled but apparently in PBR the properties of the water don't filter the light the same way I've had it happen in ray trace. Not sure why it is that way but one thing at a time.

Anyone have any luck with exterior PBR? 

I find it infinitely frustrating that light fixture settings that work for a standard view are like LED high beams when you switch to PBR mode. I get my fixtures dialed in for the exterior shots. Everything is looking great. HDR background looks good. The only detail I want to adjust is the light on the rest of the house because I feel there should be a bit more of a natural wash from how the sun should be in the background. Current settings for the environment is sun toggled "off"  

Que the sun and adjust the color, angle, and direction to my predetermined settings for this HDR. Intensity still looks like a welding arc without goggles so i adjust it down to .25LUX and it looks better except now my background is dark. Who knew the sun backlit the background, Not me until now. 

Turn off the sun and the background looks good, turn on the sun and the background is dark. Is there a way to make this not happen?

Why does the hdr light up depend on the sun illuminating it? I could maybe understand it if the sky portion of the hdr also caused cloud shadows and some color filtration of the sun on your scene but there does not appear to be any sort of affect by a background. 

Why does everything in PBR have to me like looking into a supernova with a magnifying glass when other views light data is set to where it looks good?

Why does bread land jelly side down?

Any help or insight is greatly appreciated. Thanks 

3d warehouse has this option...

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/71eba991-06eb-4c33-ba7a-328c61f863db/Household-HVAC-vents

6 hours ago, Rich_Winsor said:

To completely digress I will give an unsolicited

testimonial to Genie for their new wall mounted 

garage door openers. I just installed the first 

garage door (as seen in the pic) with the wall

mounted opener and it's a WAY simpler and

more efficient system. Installing the unit literally

involves tightening 3 set screws onto the torsion

shaft and lagging one bracket to the wall.  

what about your upper and lower limits?

1 hour ago, davidstvz said:

I tried the substance player files for tile and wood and they're very nice. One thing I'd like to see is ability to define custom formats. If that isn't feasible, then I would add some "high-variation" format options for natural material like knotty woods. These would be formats that stuff a lot of individual tiles or planks into a texture to increase variation. They would be best used with higher resolutions to maintain details. Basically, it's the opposite of the large format tiles.

 

Even better would be the custom format option. You ought to be able to define the intended scale of the texture in inches (or metric), or else the width and number of the component tiles/planks and then have the program calculate and show the resulting scale (for later input into Chief along with the map associations).

 

Also, even if you can't define custom formats, you ought to be able to indicate the component width (or height as appropriate) and then it could display the appropriate scale.  For example, if you chose 2:1 tile and set the the width to 6", it could tell you the appropriate scale of the texture is 48" by 48".

Not sure where the scale issue is... If you output a HD texture of a tile and you know you want the tiles to be 6" in "X" direction and the texture shows that there are 5 tiles in "X" direction do the math and correct whatever it says in Chief during the texture import. If it says it is 47 inches. Make sure "Retain Aspect Ratio" is locked and set "X" dimension to 30"

1 hour ago, buildinthevoid said:

Gotcha. Would I be able to import a project from Chief Architect to any of these softwares and enhance them from there?

yes

Latest victim of my texturing attempts. Move over Brickform, I'm coming after you too.

37 minutes ago, Alaskan_Son said:

 

They're not unknown methods or anything, but have you tried:

• Setting up some Custom Filters?
• My new favorite method...right clicking on the desired Folder(s) and clicking Search Folder(s)?
• Using warehouse plan(s) for commonly used items where they call all be viewed as though you were walking down a grocery store aisle? This one can be used for materials and symbols alike.

HA! I'm not the only nut with "warehouse plans". I made myself a Boulder Lot plan that shows my boulder and rock models displaying various available texture options...

11 hours ago, GeneDavis said:

I've made furniture that involved curved cuts, designed in Sketchup (free version) the parts then imported into Chief and sent to layout at 1:1.

 

The printed pattern sheets are then stuck to wood blanks using spray adhesive, and the parts roughed out on the bandsaw.

Cudos to the creativity, but check this tool out: Simple program and good results.

https://woodgears.ca/bigprint/