joey_martin

It's technical illustration that has has the background manipulated to match the green theme. That's my take.

I'm confused. What in the world is all of this about? I have been using Chief for close to 12 years (?!?) and have ALWAYS gone to Best Buy and grabbed a new HP off the shelf and add a GForce card if needed. What in the world is all this extensive testing for? I have never...I repeat NEVER had an issue with my OTC HP computers. Does any of this apply to average small office designing homes and creating ConDocs?

All of those are great ideas, but honestly....just a note and move on.

With all due respect to Mick and the others that are tossing out ideas, simply turn this job down unless you own a copy of AutoCAD that you can do this in. The file that you have there is "Paper Space" it looks like, not the plan file. There are a couple different ways you can manipulate that file, none are quick, and none are easy. If you take this job you will end up paying the client.

Yes. Export the model as a 3DS file and import into sketchup

In other words...."I am going to question everything you say or do with someone less qualified to give their 2 cents as well." No thanks. Been there, lived that.

Thanks!

Already checked 3D warehouse. Anyone have a Simpson LCC 3D symbol?

If it's a pony wall then select to have to lower section of the pony wall shown in plan view. If it's not a pony wall then look to the floor above to ensure that the door isn't in fact cutting the foundation for some reason.

I love that area...maybe a move??!! Good luck in your search!

Were you using a roof truss or a floor truss?

Same answer. Have to update the sheet numbers manually.

No. You have to add those manually.

No luck with Google Drive and Chief. Been with DropBox for....well, forever it feels like.

The pre-cut studs threw me at first, but just briefly. I actually find that they make good sense. What specifically is throwing you?

Not a CAD fill for the stone. It's a pony wall I simply SHIFT>SELECT and delete the below grade portion of the stone I don't want to see.

Just add a CAD line or use the edit tools and pull on of the dark lines down from above.

Or as I said above...select the roof plane and lock the pitch. Then all you have to do is add the additional height you want. For instance 12", you would type +12 in the ridge height box, or baseline height box and move on.

Make the foundation layer line type dashed. Never been a big fan of the CAD mask when you can control this with layers.

Simply raise the height of the ridge or the plate height while checking the box to lock the pitch.

Drag and drop. Blocks can be imported as well from the edit menu, but ordinarily I simply grab what I want and drag and drop.

Make sure you have the box checked for a ceiling over that "room". Looks like no ceiling is present, unless you didn't want on, then you need to check the size of the framing members based on the size of the fascia you have spec'ed.

I generally "market" the permitting side of things as a added bonus. Proper design and planning will eliminate most, if not all hold ups at the permit office. I have always sold myself as a designer that will more than pay for myself, if given the opportunity. Many times a client will come in with a sketch from their builder, or a floor plan printed off the internet with some notes they have talked over with their builder. In the past 20 years, there have been 5 specific occasions where I explained to the client, sometimes with the builder present, why their ideas wouldn't work as they had them sketched. On these occasions, the builder swayed and threw around phrases like "oh, I can overcome that", or "you are trying to scare them into buying plans." These 5 specific occasions, I had to be asked to come in and rescue the project, for the very reasons I pointed out. My pitch has been that you can pay me $8K-$10K for proper design and planning, or you can pay $20K in change orders and re-ordering cabinets and doors, and structural headers, that I told you wouldn't work in the first place. The top home builders in my area will send clients my way, and those that I have had to rescue will send them now, but there's a whole directory full of "contractors" that have no use for design and planning, especially if the building department don't require it.

2' thick slab or 24" stemwall? Either way, set up the garage defaults for the foundation and re-build the foundation. If you have auto foundation on it will make the change for you once you set it that way.

If the foundation wall is a pony wall, simply select to have the lower portion shown while in plan view. This will eliminate the brick ledge showing when you don't want it to.