Kelly_K

all interesting, hopefully helps others - does me no good because years ago I mapped my middle scroll button to back space and delete -combined with all the hot keys mapped to my 2 multiple button mice which serves me well by staying out of dialog boxes  

On 6/18/2021 at 1:48 PM, Richard_Morrison said:

I went through this awhile ago. I found that a backsplash works better, although I don't recall exactly why. In elevation, just draw a single tall batten and convert to a backsplash. Then, you can multiple-copy across the wall. Doors and windows will be cut out automatically, but you can adjust height individually, group select and center on a window, etc.

I needed 1x6 battens on a project, and could not find anything to my satisfaction to even create such.  This is a really good work around for what I needed.  

thanks Richard

It has been 10 years (or longer) since I migrated my desktop settings to a laptop.  I searched for a how to video thru chief but have had no success.  Use it or lose it I guess, I was able to get it done back then but I'll be damned if I can't recall how I did it.  Just curious if any user has done a tutorial on what is needed, or if anyone recalls such.

Yes, I have experienced this. 

I am also seeing trusses renumber oddly when editing in section.  In the past, trusses would renumber plus 1 or the first unused number e.g. TR10 to TR11 now it is TR10 to TR48 which is bizarre since I only have 30 total.

22 minutes ago, DzinEye said:

Right... I realize that, but I'm just asking/saying that it should become framing, along with the stringers

Agreed.

22 hours ago, Alaskan_Son said:

...  I do however still include a North Arrow on the floor plans though sometimes to help keep a reminder of where the sun is going to be.

It is also a good idea to include the north arrow on the floor plan to help out those folks that produce a manual J for heat/cool load calcs.

22 hours ago, johnny said:

...and yes, that is the action id prefer too most of the time.  The problem being if this is really how Chief wanted us to deal with this common condition its kinda a PITA due to this rule of thumb.  Id personally rather use the Square Pad tool but have it graphically cut the footing line (maybe a checkbox option) so it shows properly in 2D plans.

Yes I would welcome this, instead of clunky work around's like precisely breaking foundation walls to change a footing size for a point load.

And don't forget you can save details in layout folders too.  This can be useful for creating templates to eliminate work that repetitious. 

It isn't you I see that stuff (spikes, etc.) all the time.  The truss tails most always end up with a plumb cut.  I have made a suggestion for more control on plumb & square many years ago.  Perhaps it is time to try again.

On 8/10/2019 at 10:00 AM, Kbird1 said:

X11 is pretty Stable for most , if a tad slower than X10 in everyday use.

'Tad' is being generous.  I assume speed improvements will be forth coming so I am patiently/quietly awaiting.   That said I'm very happy with the release, the marquee select similar tool is worth the price of admission on it's own. 

Like Perry I bring all my plans forward, why handicap yourself from the improvements each release provides.   Stability hasn't been an issue for years.

On ‎3‎/‎31‎/‎2019 at 2:32 PM, Richard_Morrison said:

This is what https://www.strongtie.com/anchorholders_anchorbolts/am_holder/p/anchormate is for. If there were a 2x6 or 3x6 mudsill in place prior to the pour, with a standard 8" foundation wall, you would be pouring concrete into a 2-1/2" slot, and make it harder for the concrete folks to trowel the top of the foundation wall. 

Back in the 70's when 2x decking floors were predominate we did install the mudsill and pour into that 2-1/2" slot, and it was a pain you couldn't be any drier than a 5" slump.  Troweling the top of a foundation was not an issue - getting concrete spudded under the plate was another matter.  I do not miss those days.

5 hours ago, HumbleChief said:

Kelly, did you watch the video? I've struggled with this for years and I just learned a bunch about how perp snaps work and it looks like, with Angle Snaps turned off, dim lines will snap perp to another line if perp snaps are turned on. Never knew that and always followed your steps above but was never really happy with the results. 

Larry actually I did not, I have found perpendicular snapping required me to be zoomed in partly because I work with a high dpi setting on my mice so rather than fussing with getting a snap, I do just as I recommended.  Also the way I do my plot plans I don't need a lot of perpendicular dim work.  However, I will say you made it work pretty well coming off a corner a nice tip to remember definitely quicker than doing what I do now.

Diane,

What I do is draw in some short point to point dimension segments close to where you need them, use make parallel/perpendicular tool and then grab handle them into place.

On ‎2‎/‎7‎/‎2019 at 4:06 PM, dshall said:

 

I thought that was marketing 101.  Maybe times have changed.  Never mind,  my bad.

It is, and you are right it is called psychological pricing where odd prices slightly below whole numbers give the perception of a better deal.  It appears there may be a cultural disconnect/bias that I am sure you didn't anticipate here.

I believe version 8 or older will open the files - then re-save it forward.

On 12/10/2018 at 12:09 PM, Chris_Kelly said:

Are there default settings for electrical connections? The reason I'm looking for them is that when I make a lighting plan I always adjust all the connection splines to have a larger radius (make them straighter) than what Chief gives them when they are put in the drawing. It would save me a good 10 minutes on an average house just adjusting those damn splines. So does anyone know where the defaults are or have a work-around for me? Please and thank you.

I wish there were.

Do a search in suggestions you'll find a long list of people asking for improvements including myself.  Pick a thread and add your name is what I would recommend.

You can really override, by mapping a mouse button to delete.  In my case I use my scroll button - move to left or click is delete, move to right is backspace.

9 hours ago, KervinHomeDesign said:

Any software tool is only going to produce what you put into it, so just in case you have the impression that Chief or any other program will just magically generate drawings for you, this is not the case.

Couldn't have said it better.

Thru the eighties I built homes by day and drafted by hand at night, you can imagine how tiresome that became.  When I decided to buy a computer and jump to cad.  I looked for software that wasn't autocad because of crappy plans that I assumed was a result of that platform.  It didn't take long to realize it wasn't the software it was the technician using it.

When I jumped to modeling, I mainly focused on softplan, archicad, and chief.  I really liked archicad, but it was way more than what I needed to draft homes.  With chief I was up and running in a little under 2 weeks - half the time it took to somewhat master the other programs - principally, because of the automated framing.  With your experience and some dedication to study I can imagine you doing just fine.

On ‎9‎/‎1‎/‎2018 at 3:08 PM, Chopsaw said:

Yes that can happen and there is usually a reason for it although it is not always easy to resolve or diagnose.  Are the trusses in the problem area the same as others in the plan ?  Usually faster to just lock a good one and move it to the problem area.  If not post the plan file and someone may be able to take a look and provide a solution.

This is what I do.

When I have problems it is usually some kind of miss-alignment of the attic floor in relation to the living floor.  First thing I check.

On ‎8‎/‎24‎/‎2018 at 2:21 PM, parkwest said:

Senior discounts on CA would probably cut Chief’s annual revenue in half. 

I hate to admit it but that is a rather astute observation.

18 hours ago, rispgiu said:

Have you guys experienced issues with the toolbar changing positions by itself? 

I tried locking it but it doesn't help. 

 

This is the first time I see this happening. I tried restarting my machine and opening a new file but I still have the same issue. 

Question, do you float your toolbars on the drawing screen?  I do so with a few of mine; I definitely observe the edit tool bar jumping around and resizing on it's own, and it has done so for years, and yes locking doesn't help only docking does.   I have learned to live with it since I have mapped a lot of what is on the edit toolbar to my mice so I am not as dependent on it as I suppose most are.

yes

I use a 32" dell 4k same resolution as yours, and am blown away how clear and well defined everything is.  That said my other apps like quicken, and adobe for example fit what your are describing about chief.  I just updated quicken, so I haven't taken the time to dig into what is going on.  It is annoying - I feel your pain.

18 hours ago, Chopsaw said:

 

...  It is long overdue in this department.

Let's put some time frame to this comment, while not great, the arcs worked better with version 9.5 than they do now.  I've been waiting in consternation for 15 years for any improvement. 

4 hours ago, CJSpud said:

No building permits required in the County I live in.  Of course some of the stuff I see built around here is definitely not what you'd see being built in Kalif4nia.

There are quite a few places here that don't require permits, or if they do there are no inspections - I am looking at you Boise county.  About every 10 to 20 years we get a big snow and it clears out the mis-built structures.  Guess those customers shouldn't have gone with the cheap bid.   

Frankly, I have never minded a second pair of eyes.