mtldesigns

A side note.. if this was going to be used through out my design, I then would create this as a new material to be used.

I don't know if this is the right way or not.. but what I do is create a solid and change it to a color (either paint or stain), then use the "Adjust Material Definition" (eraser looking thing with red grey and blue stripes), I get the color blend (red, green, blue) numbers and transpose them to the item I want that color. Go to that member you want to change color, pick the AMD (mentioned above) icon and select. Go to texture, and pick "Blend with Texture" this will highlight the color box below it. Simple pick that color box and change the color via the red, green and blue numbers you wrote down. Bam..

All good stuff gentlemen. After speaking with Casey (client), he is not going to build for about two years. His goal is to get the plans, and start cutting wood. He then is going to get it dried. Also, there wont be a knot in any of his pieces.. and if it doesn't pass the mustard, then it's firewood. He wants this house to be here for his great-great grandkids and will take the time. I also brought up the fact he needs to check with locale on their requirements.. (and Chop and Doug have mentioned). Here in Wakulla Florida, so def will need to be wind rated.

Got a new client who has his own saw mill. This guy wants to build a 4000 sq. home, but wants to saw all his own studs and he wants the actual to be the nominal. Meaning a 2x4 measures 2x4, etc... I know that is just a setting in the dbx so that's not an issue. I'm just wondering in my head what kind of engineering or permitting issues we may have in the future since the wood will not be graded. He thinks we can get by with this because the main supports will be steel. IDK... Am I thinking to much into this? I have put in my contract a stipulation, that any engineering rejection based on framed members not being stamped/grade, that an hourly rate will be charged to update to meet those requirements. I typically don't charge for engineering changes is why I felt the need for this adder.

Hope you find someone.. Rich. I got family (mom and dad) in Howard City, so somewhat familiar with the area. However, I am to far away to help you out.

This is exactly what I do.. I have all four elevation views open, for example, and copy and paste from each one to the other (if applicable). Not worrying about order. Once complete, I rearrange the order on the schedule. I love this availability to be honest, makes for a nice clean drawing. And if you need to modify the text, you do it in the schedule. Rids the possibility of missing an old fashion text somewhere.

Just wondering, why do you uninstall?

Me either.. maybe they thought I was trespassing on your gig, when I was just curious on the website. I like looking at our peeps work and their websites, gives me ideas on mine.

I've had this happen too, the main beam is fine, but back to the wall its higher.. I couldn't figure it out either. So a while ago I decided I was going to design my own post and beams. I created as a block and reuse all the time. The Chief generate beam isn't a solid, and it does things like what you show. Another thing you can't do right out of the box is to dimension post.. at least I could never figure it out, unless you break your wall at every post. I'd rather just make my post with the moldings and put where I want.

Is this a legit website? I get a ad to buy this domain...

There are a couple in Chiefs Bonus library "Recreation No.5" (Golf)

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/72/additional-floors-foundation-basics.html?playlist=88 https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/

A true artist.... it does work great, I'm glad we can copy too, from one view to the other..

This worked great Glen.. Thanks!

I don't think your too much of a newbie Jim, you have caught on pretty well by previous post I've read of yours. I'm not sure of a reveal either, but I know I can show it with using a bump map. And I like I mentioned in my OP, I can do a grid or offset grid, but can't do a diff size grid.. at least I'm not aware of I can. The reason I want to show on the wall dbx is for BOM reasons. This builders just likes to know.. even though it would be easy to calc by looking at elevations. I think he just uses this doc to keep his subs honest.

Trying to figure out how to do this typed of Hardie siding and wonder what the consensus is with you pro's... First with a wall type def. I am using perfect wall setup with fur strips to place this panel as per the Hardie instruction details. The part I am having a fit with is the actual panel. I understand how to do this if all the panels are the same size... but my clients want the look of the attached "hardie 1", where the panels are different sizes, and line up with windows, etc.. Should this be done with a material region, and if so, how do I define this on a the wall type def., or don't I? Just take the wall def to the furring strips and MR the panels..? I appreciate any feed back.

This has happened to me.. I have found if I put them all in a block, I can rotate that block, move it, etc... then when I am satisfied with location, I explode the block.

Just curious, how many have tripped over a cord when plugged into a wall? The dogs do every time the vacuum gets turned on. I wonder how this affects houses already in the build process?

Where are you located Diana.. and is remote work optional? Do you use Chief Premier?

Good to know Dan. Most of this house has stained concrete floors, and I added 1/16" to that... maybe that's why I didn't have any glow inside?

Jeff, I take my earlier comment back. The first time I changed the suns intensity "adjust sunlight" in the camera setting.. that didn't work. However I just changed the Daytime Backdrop Intensity via the Rendering Tech Options.. that did work! Thanks man...

Here you go Dan. I tried the changing the room type also, and it didn't seem to work. Its that grass, for some reason it bleads through all around, but with each pass it fades.. except here. That was 4500 samples. Night camera works great! This is a very stripped down version to get it to zip. I still need to work the ceiling in the main house, that shouldn't be the issue.. should it? I did this to.. was my first thought also. GRIMES BARN HOME WITH GLOW.zip

How do I correct this? I have a foundation, roof, model is almost done... but when I do a daylight camera view of the enclosed outdoor kitchen, I get a green glow at the base. This room is mostly enclosed so for grass to be reflecting onto this, to me is impossible. No where else on this slab house, just right here I get the glow.

Get used to material regions Keara. A great tool for floors, walls where you have two material areas. In this case, go to the Build menu at the top, then to Floor - Material Region

I agree, but I never do auto roofs anyways, I like the thought process of how all those planes come together. A very beautiful house though. I'd think I'd have more issues with those balconies than the roof, IMO.