BFogarty

4 minutes ago, DerekPedersen said:

This is correct.  If your legacy SSA expires you still have access to a perpetual license of Chief Architect.  The version you have access to is the current version as of the date of expiration.

 

Kind regards,

 

Derek Pedersen

Chief Architect Sales

Thank you Derek

On 11/27/2023 at 9:01 PM, Kbird1 said:

 

Additional Licences have always been 65%-75%? or so of the Full Price.   

( it seems strange to me that it seems even that might disappear come Dec.29th looking at pic above)

 

As far as I know SSA is no longer available to anyone, and they no longer allow Transfers of License's either (since Nov.29th 2022),

so you can't pickup a 2nd hand Additional Licence either anymore, everything is Subscription Only now........either monthly or yearly.

 

You can buy more than 1 year of SSA at a time while times are "good" though if desired, though I think it is restricted to 2 years now.

 

Mick.

 

 

If one is a legacy user and if they ultimately decide to stop at some point, don’t they get to keep the last version they have paid their SSA into?

2 hours ago, Joe_Carrick said:

I don't think that's correct.  If you want to stay with X11 you can - without SSA.  Your software will continue to function just as it has.  You only need to pay for SSA if you want to continue to get support and automatic upgrades.  If that's what you want, don't let SSA lapse.  Otherwise you have X11 and its essentially yours to use.

Sorry if this was answered, I did not see it.

What if one is current with their SSA on X14, stays current on SSA for lets say 3 more versions to "X17" and decide you are done.  Do you walk away with still being able to use X17, or do you have to go back to X14?

Gene,

While my current capacity is filled as a GC/Designer/Code Official, by trade I am a framer.  As a framer, and regardless of plans, I'd never of allowed for that situation to have been created without a cricket, its a ticking time bomb (which you're well aware of now...).  If the GC I was framing for told me to construct it that way, I would've made him sign an affidavit acknowledging his choice of construction, potential risk, and that I would not be responsible for any water related issues.  In my 25 years of framing, I thankfully never came across such a thing.

Regarding plan review and periodic inspections during construction-  This is not an item, if not specified on the plan, would stick out to me as an item to note to the contractor.  How often are stair rails/guards not noted on plans (a lot!), but they surely are installed during construction.  The inspection thing could go either way.  I could point out the potential issue and refuse to sign their card until it's corrected....if they disagree, they can appeal my decision, which turns into a drawn out mess for the GC.  Or the inspector could see it and have the mindset of "it's not a safety issue, that's on the GC", and not bring it up.  I would NOT choose the latter.

As Tina mentioned (I think), building departments are designed for assigning liability to others throughout the process.  If done correctly, there is someone on the hook for multiple stages of the process, with them not being on the end of any.  Not saying departments cannot be held liable ever, but good luck with that route.

My gut says this is on the GC, they allowed the situation to occur, and shame on them for it...

Hope you're able to get this resolved.

1 hour ago, mtldesigns said:

I am sure there is a setting or something.. but I have had houses that had multiple dormers and one might do this also.. pull the hair out.  I usually, after messing with it for a bit, jut fill with a poly solid, paint and move on.  Make it is own layer so you can turn off on the floor plan in layout view (like WALL FILL).   when it comes to the elevations, I just delete the lines using "edit Layout Lines"...  if someone knows how to fix.. I'm all ears.

I hear ya on the p-solid, a time tested go to!  But this is one that's just bugging me on "what in the world is causing this?!?"...lol

Been beating my head against the wall for an hour now, having no luck getting the cheek wall to fill in.  Each time I pull the interior knee wall away it fills, put it back and I have a hole again.  Checked settings over and over, with to no avail, never had this happen before without figuring it out.  Pic and plan attached.  X13

1 Mathurin 7.6.21.plan

Yup, here it is.  Thanks Eric!

So funny the coincidence, just ran into that same issue

5 minutes ago, DRAWZILLA said:

I use a lot of light sources , put them anywhere and they don't show in render view.  It's like having extra lights without adding extra light fixtures.  Make sure to change the amount of lights in the camera DBX to 50 or 100. also

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Will give that a shot!

On 5/6/2019 at 7:52 AM, MarkMc said:

Edit camera- turn off bloom. Do the same for camera defaults.

Done...Thanks!

On 5/6/2019 at 1:49 PM, DRAWZILLA said:

You can also turn down the lights as needed

Just did this Perry, and it did help.  I also added additional lighting in attempt to brighten things up....but it's still really dim.  Any other thoughts on getting it brighter?  Thanks!

Is it possible to get recessed lights without the "halo" around the outer ring?  Just doesn't look realistic this way. 

Can't upload the plan at the moment, but will if necessary.  Thx

8 minutes ago, Kbird1 said:

 

It seems like the As-Built Foundation is auto generating Attic Walls for some reason , and since you used Manual Roof planes you never noticed the Issue, I am not sure why the Walls on Level one didnt stop the Attic Walls on the foundation Level from auto Building , not sure if it has something to do with the weird shape of the old Breezeway foundation and you not fixiing it under the new Family room or not? Sorry I can't be Your help......

 

M.

 

 

Your help/time is much appreciated!

On 3/24/2019 at 11:30 AM, Kbird1 said:

 

Had more luck this morning.....

 

I extended the back wall of the garage foundation to the house , and the used the short wall at the left of the new Family Room entrance on level one and extended it right across the house to the back corner and it built properly with the "Lower Wall if split by Butting Roof" set to 5ee.  I did have to change the material to the 23 Cedar Street Siding from the default though.

 

Personally for that reason I change the Walltype Definition once I know what they are as CA still does woeird thing when "painting" exterior walls in Particular..

 

I guess the Plan isn't quite finished as I see no Door onto the deck...so couldn't help adding on

 

M.

 

 

23 Cedar St v3_MHD2.plan

The door looks great!...lol  One actually has to go there, or we'll extend the deck over and center a door on that back wall.

I'm still stuck on the "why" this happened (I should really move on :), nothing productive in it), do you think it stemmed from the as-built and then the stuff I removed, then adding new floor/walls/roof?  Ultimately something I had set on the as-built didn't jive with the new?

Thanks for your help Mick!

I was going to rip it apart, but I got too consumed with trying to find the problem

Sometimes it's just best to not over think things

7 minutes ago, Kbird1 said:

Hmmmm this is a weird one ...it has something to do with the old Garage/basement ....it is building auto walls under the wall you drew for the family room wall..... as soon as I pull the wall back at the exterior door and auto wall pops up and the error fixes itself ?????  see pic...selection is me pulling the 1st wall back....and now look at where the door was....

 

 

Weird?  Absolutely.  Normally I can figure dumb stuff like this out....but no such luck today.

Essentially this is a remodel where there was a breezeway/garage, we're using the existing footprint to create one room.  Where that front door was, was bumped out 4' or so from where the breezeway door currently is.   Had no issues until we scaled back and needed to remove some stuff

11 minutes ago, solver said:

I think it's a wall alignment problem.

 

I made an Open Below room and fiddled with the walls and roof.

 

Double check dimensions.

 

23 Cedar St v3 (eric).zip

Thanks Eric!

Attached is a copy of the plan before I had any issues.  The goal was to remove the mudroom/closet walls and bump the entire ceiling up to 12', everything was intact prior to removal.  I figured this may give you an idea of everything that was going on, maybe an answer as well.  I'm just too pissed off with it at this point....soo dumb!

23 Cedar St v1 (ca forum).plan

Can someone please help me with this cheek (see image)?  For the life of me I cannot get it straightened out, been at it for hours.  Can't believe I'm  hung up on this......

Plan attached

23 Cedar St v3.plan

21 minutes ago, solver said:

Shelf Ceiling

A little direction always helps.....it was in the CA videos.

Thx...again!

I swear I get hung up on the stupidest things......  Do not want this closet to go all the way up, want to cap it flat at wall height.  After 30 minutes looking through the 10 resources, I got nothing.

Help!

28 minutes ago, solver said:

I changed the front wall to the short post. You will need to draw in a beam.

 

I made a symbol using the bottom of the tall post and have attached it in case you did not already have one.

 

23 short post.calibz

 

Thank you Sir, appreciate the help!

4 minutes ago, solver said:

There may be a way, but I've always done it manually.

 

Have you considered no columns across the front?

 

Damn, that looks pretty good.... structurally I don't think it would be a big deal to pick that up being a gable.

I was thinking manually maybe the answer.  Did you just set the front railing wall to the short posts and the sides to columns?

1 minute ago, solver said:

The one just left of the stairs?

Yes.  I know if I did that then the other side would want it also, but then I'd have to move the other post to center, throwing off the railing sections.  I guess one thing at a time....if there a way to remove a full post and replace it with a newel?

Hello!

Not sure if I'll even end up doing it....but if I wanted to get rid of the full column that is so close to the corner, and replace it with a newel...where would one start?

Thanks!

23 Cedar St v1.plan

1 minute ago, SNestor said:

I think you will have to check the box on the "deck" tab to "automatically regenerate deck framing"...which will change the deck material.

 

 

Ahh...gotcha.  Thank you!