Nate_M

I second Susan's suggestion of using a tall cabinet. I've come across scenarios similar to what you are trying to accomplish a few times and have found using a tall cabinet to be the most flexible solution. Trying to use walls as posts will confuse Chief. For the horizontal beams soffits work great.

I'm hoping someone here can share their experience creating a nice meeting point between a flat ceiling and a sloped ceiling (vaulted room). I attached a picture of what I have created so far. Is there a way to place the base of the sloped ceiling exactly at the location of where the flat ceiling ends. I'm using a room divider to separate the two areas. I'm using manually placed roof planes to generate the sloped ceiling. I can get the edges close, but I suspect there is a way to place the sloped ceiling more accurately. I've just been guessing to get it as close as I can. I really don't like resorting to just guessing values. 

Also, this type of ceiling arrangement is not that uncommon so I'm confident someone else here has run into having to produce this same type of thing. How do you go about lining things up?

I am working on drawing an as-built plan for a 1800's farmhouse and ran into this unique scenario. The window openings have rounded plaster corners (see attached photo). I was actually able to hack together a way to mostly achieve the look of the existing window openings. Thought I might post some notes here in case anyone else runs into a similar need. Can't guarantee this is the best method, but I managed to make it look surprisingly close and it's going to work for what I need.

To make this work I used two separate walls placed against each other. Once walls are oriented correctly, I used a pass through window opening to create the larger window opening on the inside wall. I removed the casing, sill and frame to make it a very simple wall opening. Then I placed the actual window on the outside wall.

So far things were pretty straight forward. Where things got tricky was when I was trying to recreate the radius edge. What I ended up doing is creating a radius profile and adding that to my user library as a molding profile. Then I added window casing to the outside window using the radius profile. The casing needed to be depth of the inside wall so it meets up to the interior perfectly. The casing was added to all four sides of the window, but if you reference the photo you'll notice that's not exactly what I wanted. So, what I figured out to eliminate the top casing is to use a lintel. Once I added that it made to top of the window opening flat. I didn't really want to draw attention to the lintel so I made it only 1/16" thick. 

Finally, I adjusted the widths of the window frame on the outside wall to try and match the reference photo. I also adjusted the heights of both the outside window and inside wall opening to be the same height off the floor so it looks like there is a continuous surface. The last thing I did was to match the casing and frame color to the interior wall to make it look like a seamless transition.

Overall what I was able to make in Chief comes pretty close. I messed around with trying to create the rounded edge across the top of the window opening, but haven't had any success. 

Has anyone else ever ran into this scenario? How would you create this window style?

On 8/25/2022 at 10:11 AM, DznrDavid said:

Nate, I need to create this same look for a floating 72" vanity showing 6 drawers. Can you tell me how you did it?  Thanks in advance!

Hi @DznrDavid,

I started with Mark's door maker file (he posted the file early in this thread). I created a template using countertops for three individual segments. Here's a screenshot of what the template looks like. The stiles and rails are 3/4" countertops and the panels are 1/8" thick countertops. I vary the panel thickness depending on the molding detail. If you have a panel molding you'll have to draw that or find an existing one and attach it to each of the three individual panels. Once you've got the template laid out just save each segment as a custom drawer.

Like I said it's tedious and I'm sure there's probably a better way to do it. Hope that helps!

Thank you both Eric and M. that was an easy fix!

My preferred method for placing freestanding refrigerators in a tall cabinet is to create a cabinet with an opening and manually place a refrigerator in that opening. This works great for me because I can place the refrigerator however I want in the cabinet. I often leave some space at the back as an allowance for the electrical and water lines. 

The issue I am having is that the refrigerator symbol I place in the cabinet shows up on top of the cabinet symbol. I want the cabinet to show that the refrigerator has been placed inside of it. I don't really know if there's a way to edit the order of how symbols display, if there is how do I accomplish that? If there is not and you have the same issue, what do you do to fix it? I attached a photo to show how my refrigerators are displaying in relation to tall cabinets. 

I'm looking for some suggestions on how to build the sloped ceiling underneath the stair platform. I can make a sloped ceiling plane, but then I don't' know how to build it out. All of the other methods I've seen require building a roof. However this does not have or need any roof framing. I guess I could build a polyline solid and save that as a soffit? Is that the best way to do it? It's kind of an odd setup if you ask me, but I need to include the detail in an as built plan for a remodel project.

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.

I'm drawing a plan for a second floor home office space that includes an elevator. The elevator is essentially a round tube with windows. I was able to closely recreate the look of the elevator by creating a round room with windows and a door. The problem I am having is that I cannot get the ceiling of this "elevator room" to go all the way up to the ceiling of the larger space it's located in. For some reason part of the wall goes to the ceiling, but other parts do not which leaves a weird gap around the top of the elevator. The entire space is a reverse gable, therefore it has a sloped roof/ceiling plane. I suspect this is part of what's causing my problem. Can anyone help me figure out how to get the elevator walls to extend all the way up to the sloped ceiling? I attached two photos to help illustrate my problem.

Thank you Ryan and Mark. I was unaware of that default plan setting. I checked "Ignore Casing for Opening Resize" and was able to accomplish exactly what I needed.

Thanks again guys!

Hello,

I am working on an as built for a 1800's house. The door and window trim is 5 3/4" wide. My problem is that there a few instances where the door or window trim has been cut down to fit up against another wall. For example there's a window in one of the corners that is nearly up against the perpendicular wall. The trim on the left side of the window is 5 3/4" but the trim on the right side is around 3". 

Is there a way to place the window further into the corner and cut off the trim? Can I make the trim on only side of the window a smaller width? This is a pretty common occurrence in our work and I would like to have a method of solving this issue.

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.

Hello, I need to purchase a new laptop that will run Chief Architect x12. I came across the MSI GL65 Leopard 10SFK-062 and thought it seems like a reasonable price for the specs. I am curious if anyone has experience with this laptop or a similar model. It's been a while since I purchased a laptop. I'm not very familiar with how NVMe hard drives work as opposed to a SSD+HDD setup. 

Here is a link to the Amazon product listing > https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Leopard-10SFK-062-i7-10750H-RTX2070/dp/B085B3GFRL

I realize the topic of "what computer to buy" comes up frequently here so no need to remind me of that. 

Thought I'd post an example of the types of cabinet door modifications I need to make. I used Mark's door tool with some of my own adjustments to create the segmented door as three drawer fronts pictured here. The actual edge profile of the door is not unlike many manufacturer profiles, however I require the flexibility of using inset panels, specialty door/drawer configurations and other details with that edge profile. Cobbling together existing elements from Chief core catalogs and manufacturer becomes time intensive and often ends in having to hack something together that is less than satisfactory. Obviously Chief can't cater to every single use case, but developing workflows and "jigs" to produce extremely custom elements can get you really close!

Hey Mark,

This is incredibly helpful. Thanks for sharing! I've been tinkering with the plan file you posted and it's starting to make sense. I'm sure once I get the hang of it things will move much faster for me. Again, I appreciate you supplying the plan file and the how-to guide.

Hi,

I'm wondering if anyone here has experience creating custom doors for cabinetry. Most of our work requires a custom door/drawer style or some special wainscot panels. What is the best way to create a custom door/drawer and use it with Chief Architect cabinets?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Hi,

I'm wondering if anyone on this forum has experience modeling custom cabinet doors. We work exclusively with custom cabinetry and often find ourselves needing to represent a one off door style. I haven't found a comprehensive tutorial on how to model a custom cabinet door style and use it within the Chief Architect cabinetry tools. I would appreciate if anyone here could point me in the right direction to accomplish this.

Thank you!