andr0id

Allura recently lost a lawsuit that alleged they make the product from fly ash and that it breaks and shrinks.

https://considertheconsumer.com/class-action-settlements/allura-fiber-cement-siding-settlement-2021-start-to-claim-the-12-5-million-settlement-rebate-now

Hardie has had problems and lawsuits too, but after some reading, I'm going to avoid fly ash products on my new home.

Much is (probably correctly) blamed on incorrect installation. It's not hard, but failure to read the documentation and just nail it to the wall will result in the clearances and nailing being wrong and possible water damage to the siding or structure.

Wrong nail pattern, nail over-penetration and incorrect spacing between planks and panels and incorrect caulking seem to be the biggest offenders.

I think we're going to go with Factory painted Hardie CedarMill.  Then I don't have to rely on somebody that may not paint it correctly.

Good luck on your hunt, I'm not sure anything out there is 100% perfect.

2 hours ago, GeneDavis said:

Tell us why you have to get this in your Chief model, when the truss supplier has already correctly modeled it and provided plans in .pdf.  
 

Does the client require this?  Are you being paid for this?

I was trying to make construction drawings for my building dept that accurately reflect what's being built.

At this point I'm going to try to just get the wall heights to come out right and then send my framing details to the layout.

My only reward the knowledge accumulated on journey.

I'm probably going overboard. I think I'm intimidated by the multi page sample layouts and I probably don't really need anything that fancy for Fremont County, CO.

I did figure out how to get the end truss to be the "attic wall"

1)  create the roof and ceiling planes and draw in the first truss.

2) offset it to 0 relative to the gable wall. This should park it on the outside edge of the wall.

3) multi-copy all the rest of trusses to the other end.

4) pick the 2 ends and set [x] End Truss and [x] Reduced Gable and [x] Force rebuild

5) now build roof framing and wall framing.

3 hours ago, DRAWZILLA said:

get a PDF of the truss plan and import it to your sheets.

OK, I have that. 

I guess I can make an alternate .plan file that has no roof on it the generate the wall details.

Is that how it is normally done?

I have a truss design from Foxworth, and I want to update my framing plans and roof framing plans to show the truss design.

I need to put in 2 girder trusses and then 2 sets of roof trusses.

CA is fighting me every step of the way.

It either won't put in 2nd floor walls or wants to stack attic walls on top of my end/gable trusses. If it doesn't stack attic walls, it won't show exterior sheathing.

This is a section of the roof truss plan provided by the truss engineer. I also have the pdfs of all the actual truss dimensions. So I know those girder trusses are 3' tall and 4 ply.

I seem to have no control over how tall to make a truss.

Any ideas on how to get this drawn?

Thanks Chop and Gene!

I guess I designed my house with every possible weird thing Chief doesn't like! 

My ground floor will have gypcrete poured over radiant so I want to double bottom plates. The 1-1/2" gypcrete will be to the level of the 1st plate and then sheetrock can be normally nailed to the plate above the gypcrete.

But my basement is just 4" slab poured before the wall are built, so I want to show those as single bottom plates.

I'm stumped because there only seems to be one place to set plating under framing and it applies to all floors.

On 3/29/2021 at 10:56 AM, mborean said:

I'd think about going to a 7 3/4" riser.  This would eliminate one tread and, IMHO is more comfortable to climb than a 6 13/16" riser.

Thank you, thank you.

That was a great suggestion. It auto calculated to 7-1/4" rise and I ended up with a few more inches of headroom and a slightly smaller stairwell.

Win, win!

Thanks Eric, That looks like a good video that has everything in it.

I'll watch it tomorrow.

I'm on IRC 2018.

I'm detailing out my floor heights. I've got a really big family room in the walk out, so we're using 16" trusses to avoid posts.

So I've very carefully stacked my basement and 1st floor defaults with the exact heights of everything we're using and then I reran the stairs.

I've got 6'11" from the nose of the step that hits the ceiling and the next step up has all air overhead, so I think that means I got an extra 3" overhead.

And my rise and run are within limits, but treads are < 11" so I have 1" nosing as required.

I'm not required to have a landing, but I do because it looks nicer from the great room.

So did I get it right?

HAHA,

This just got posted on Reddit r/coolguides

https://www.reddit.com/r/coolguides/comments/m7ucp2/know_your_roof_types/

Thanks, that's a pretty decent little tutorial and it got me a lot farther than before. 

It's builds a ledger and the wall above, no truss or header though, so I've got to keep tinkering.

First, is there a technical name for this type of shed roof that is split and then has a row of windows?

I want to build my barn/workshop with this type of roof, BUT I will not have a bearing wall under those windows.  My garage door will be on the side where the single window is right now.

I know that it would be built by putting in a truss with a ledger to attach the lower rafters, but I'm not sure how to get Chief to do that.

Does anyone have a sample plan that is this kind of roof that I could sing along to?

2 hours ago, TheKitchenAbode said:

Obviously an occupancy certificate is much more involved and the requirements will likely vary according to your local. The other consideration is if there is a mortgage involved and if so what % value of the home is being mortgaged. Mortgage holders will have their own requirements as an incomplete home is of less value than a completed home.

I will have to tape, but we can L5 later and paint. No banks to satisfy, just my life's savings.

13 hours ago, Kiwideziner said:

If it is fire rated I would assume it requires stopping.

So, it turns out to be more complicated than that.

You have to dig deep into USG's library to find a document called Fire Rated Assemblies.

it details every possible metal, masonry or wood framed wall, ceiling and floor you could possible think of with one or more layers of sheetrock installed along with the actual UL test number.

Some assemblies say -joints filled some do not.

So, I'm building my own house and our permit lasts 12 months or we have to pay extra for a renewal.   I'm trying to figure out must finish vs. nice to finish to close out my permit in time.

I'm looking at IRC R301.11.1 for fireblock materials and it explicitly says, "5) one-half-inch (12.7mm) gypsum board."  and that is all.

So does tightly butted gypsum board meet this requirement? It looks like it does to me.

I would very much like to install sheetrock and then tape, float and paint after we close the permit at my leisure.

Of course I will ask the building dept, but wanted to know if there is anything that says it MUST be taped and floated that I am overlooking.

Thanks!

The only thing I can find in my Illustrated NEC is that IF you have a receptacle in accessory/detached buildings, it must be GFCI protected.

Thanks, I found the mat under plan materials and made a clone.

I'm sure I had found a menu item to set ICF block length and height but I can't seem to find my way back to it.

Can anybody help me out?

I want to set Fox 48"x16" as the default size to show.

2 minutes ago, DavidJPotter said:

He set up his rafter tail molding profile, built a rafter and then placed the custom rafter under the deck. One can also just create a custom polyline solid to emulate just the rafter tail and add that to the end of the deck framing manually.

 

DJP

Ah, so he replaced the beam with a rafter! I still have to learn all the ways to cheat in CA to get what I want!

I see that adding a poly tail though might get a more reliable materials list.

Thank you!

Is that a "Deck Beam"?   How did you manage to add the tail?

Hi there!

Anybody have any suggestions as to how I would add fancy tails to my deck beams as shown in the photo?

The deck tools seem pretty inflexible in this regard.

Thank you!

Thanks TKA.

Coincidentally, I was trying to build a fireplace with bounding box for combustible clearance and was getting similar odd behavior.

I finally got it to have the right bounding box by moving the origin to the front, but I get to see the backside of the fireplace in the library view.

I wish there were a decent video of this end to end.

2 minutes ago, joey_martin said:

Depends on what it's for I guess. There are no dimensions, no driveways or utilities located, no setbacks marked, etc...

 

Even in my jurisdiction, which is super easy to get a permit, the process would have stopped at the lack of site info and been sent back to me for corrections.

Thanks Joey, this wasn't really meant to be complete, just to ask about the exploded view.

The dashed line is the 50 foot setback though.

I couldn't find many examples of making a site plan on a large site.

I thought of doing something with an exploded view and whipped up a sample.

I used Plan Footprints within the plot and then sent the house and garage to the same layout page at a larger scale.

This is my first time doing one like this.

Does this look like a reasonable way to do it?

Thanks for any comments.

plot plan with enlarged view.pdf