SNestor

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Everything posted by SNestor

  1. @Jake1976…maybe you had it set as a balcony and changed it - and auto rebuild deck was unchecked.
  2. @HeatherMcK - What height is the 2nd floor ceiling supposed to be? You have it set to be 77.5"...which is too low. I'm assuming you meant it to be 97.5"... Also...windows typically are 80" above the floor. The 2nd floor windows are located about 67" above the floor. Can you clarify?
  3. @Jake1976 - A deck works differently than a typical floor platform. You can use just about any wall type to create your deck rail...chief does not extend the finish materials across the floor platform. See my attached screen clip...where I use the "Siding-4" wall to create my deck. The finish material does not cover the beam or the newel posts either. The one effect the wall type does have is that it centers the railing wall on the width of whatever wall type you are using.
  4. Kevin - I'm a bit lost on this project. Can you provide some sort of screen clip to show where the garage was originally? See my attached clip...do I understand that this area use to be a garage, and now you are putting a basement in it's place?
  5. Questions...see screen clip. The "red" lines are the walls currently in the basement. Will you be placing a wood floor over the existing garage floor? At what elevation is the current garage floor in relation to "zero"...which is absolute elevation of the first floor.
  6. Not sure...but, I just opened your plan and it appears you do have "stem" walls for the garage...and, the floor is dropped below the top of the stem wall. What is it you are trying to do?
  7. Send to layout using a "Saved Plan View"... Chiefs out of the box template comes pre-defined with some SPV's.
  8. @ChiefChrissy Here's the way I'd do it; Insert a "room divider wall"...in the newly created room check "flat ceiling Over this Room" and if needed set the desired ceiling height. This new wall will create the vertical fill between the flat ceiling and pitched ceiling plane. See attached screen clips;
  9. @carowe - made you a short "how to" video; Cathy Rowe - Ranch Roof using Auto Roof Tools - Watch Video
  10. Please post a plan...or sample plan. Otherwise we just guess... Thanks!
  11. I'm surprised that using a custom "reference" layer display set hasn't been suggested. I don't do a lot of remodel work...but when I have I create an "as-built". Then, I copy the "as-built" plan to create a new plan called "demo plan". I either create a unique saved plan view...or just a unique layer set for displaying the walls that have to be demo'd. I use the "wall hatch" tool to fill the walls that need to be removed. This fill is on it's own layer. The walls for the as-built typically are white...and I've turned off framing of these walls. It seems to work well enough. Example Demo plan; New Wall Plan;
  12. You can open the schedule and delete all the columns...except those you need. You can even "rename" the columns. If the material name isn't what you want...you will have to edit the material itself. You could make a copy of the material and give it a unique name...or, just rename the existing material. See the attached screen clip;
  13. sometimes a video is worth a 1,000 posts; Knot Square - Furred Wall set as default - Watch Video
  14. @stager386 - There are "defaults"...but these can be over-ridden by the user for specific wall(s) or room structures. Say for example you want all your walls to be 16" on center...except one wall you need it to be 12" on center because of the load that wall is expected to carry. You can open the wall dialogue and change just that wall to 12" on center...but all your other walls will remain "default". You can do the same for rooms...maybe one room needs the floor joists at a tighter spacing than your default...you can specify that in the room dialogue...just for that room. Hope that makes sense...
  15. @Ed_Orum - all you needed to do in the beginning was open “defaults” >Floors and Rooms>2nd floor. Change the joist size… As long as each room is set to use defaults the model will update. You may have to rebuild the floor framing…but that’s it. If you have already built the roof and had turned off auto rebuild roofs you will have to manually move the roof up/down depending on the difference in the joist size.
  16. @MN_JohnH - made you a quick video; MN_JohnH - roof fix - Watch Video
  17. Cad tools. Save to library so you can use it again when needed.
  18. Terry - I made some basic changes...which I noted on the floor plan. Seems to have fixed things... High Octane Dallas plan - fixed.zip
  19. Eric...the idea on the brick ledge is that I want the slab to be an even number past the main layer. The brick veneer + air space + OSB sheathing is 5 7/16. I offset the slab 1-7/16 to make the extended ledge an even 4". I probably would not do this typically...it was a test. I'd probably have to make the ledge at least 5".
  20. I'm not an expert on mono-slabs...but, can someone tell me why the wall intersections leave these "remnants". It's like the software does not know that that just because an interior wall intersects with an exterior wall with a brick ledge that the ledge should continue through. Is this user error...or, some sort of software glitch? Plan attached...X15 using Chiefs OOB template Thanks! Mono Slab Example Plan.plan
  21. Those are "ceiling break" lines...you cannot select them. Just go to the layer set and turn this layer off. Your roof is clipping the ceiling...
  22. Yes...there is sound. Check you computer speakers. I just clicked on the video and I had sound.
  23. You can create the beams using the solid tool...and solids can be shaped like a polyline. Draw them in plan view...set desired width, depth. Rotate the solid to 45 degrees. The pull the end into the corner from the middle of the beam. Then, using the #3 key, put a break in the end of the solid and pull the sides to align with the ceiling.
  24. The simplest fix is as "TeaTime" has posted..."use the soffit for surface" that is provided in the room specification. However, this will reduce the size of your rafters. Another method is to increase the size of the gable sub fascia to that of the rafter size and accordingly increase the size of the gable fascia. You should also increase the thickness of the soffit to match that of the ceiling...or, vice versa...change the room ceiling to match the thickness of the soffit.