Gawdzira

Thanks. I may have drawn that one slightly out of the orthogonal plane?

I am not sure what I am doing so wrong? Adding custom rafter tails and I am not getting my rafter to build correctly. What am I doing wrong? Tail line that I exported to the library. 3x4 rafters I am only working on the garage/adu building on the left side of the plan. I saved that elevation camera with the line drawing of the rafter tail Thanks for any input. Roof actual YAN ADU V1 export.zip rafter tail a.calibz

select your walls and check this button

Before adjusting the wall on the left that that is 2'-10 15/16" after adjusting the wall by clicking on the dimension string and changing 2' 10 15/16 to 3'-0, I lose the dimension segment at the 3' section. I have not seen this before but I generally don't dimension to centerlines of walls. It still does not seem like something positive for that dimension segment to vaporize. YAN as built v1.zip

It sounds like the best approach would be to make the room ceiling ht. 14' in order for that to be the plate height where the rafters/trusses bear. Then place a dropped ceiling at 9 or 10'. In the roof tools there is a "Ceiling Plane" tool. Place a ceiling plane and adjust accordingly.

Good to know. I wonder if you could do that with Zip R on the roof sheathing layer. I will quiz my engineer about that. That would be a lot cheaper than spray foam and less likely to poison the workers. I can smell that spray foam for days and I always suspect if you can smell it, it is not your friend.

I think the r-5 is short on the ratio you would want for the flash and batt or "perfect roof" system. I think you want closer to 25% of your insulation value on the top side or the spray foam layer to cut off the dew point issue. Are you looking at the info from Building Science Corporation? I assume you are since you mentioned "perfect roof". https://buildingscience.com/documents/reports/rr-9904-unvented-cathedralized-attics-where-we-ve-been-and-where-we-re-going/view

What is the ceiling height of the room? That is likely the top plate. By uploading the .plan file this would be easier to ascertain. You must close the program before zipping the file. Also, if you build framing for the walls and roof it may reveal more to you.

All of the unvented assemblies I have done so far have been Flash and Batt. I am in climate zone 3 so about 2.5" of spray foam (approx. r-19) and then batt to make up the difference to get to r-30. The spray foam goes in before the sprinkler piping to avoid a hot spray foam to piping issue. For my next project I am looking towards something like you show #2. #4 looks expensive for construction and still gets you the fire issue for embers entering the assembly. With #2, either fill that soffit with spray foam or vent it. That is an area where you will have issues if it is left as shown.

The other question is, why are you doing a vented roof assembly? There are good options for unvented assemblies even if you want to avoid spray foam at the underside of the sheathing. Depending on the size of your roof, with Vulcan vents running continuously on each side that is a lot of money. The last time I purchased Vulcan vents (a little over 2 years ago) they were over $10/ lin.ft for the eave/strip vent type. For fire issue reasons, I have been avoiding vented roof systems as well as vented crawl spaces.

From that diagram, is the Vulcan vent only at that location. Do you have eave venting? In what I have built I put the Vulcan vent at the point of intake (eave in my situation). This does not make sense to me to have the Vulcan vent at this location. In theory, the top of the roof would be an exhaust as the heat would rise and exit there. But, in the event of a fire, would this still be the case? Therefore, I would supplement the Cor-A-Vent with 1/8" HDG screen mesh.

I realize why ChiefTalk does not have a monthly contest on most creative screen names because Astrigal has sealed it up.

What Glenn said (plus 1000 wds)

In plan view, just grab the desired corner and move it.

In the future I will strive to make my jokes funnier so as to better distinguish them from my often useless advice.

This is the "switch" I was referring to. I am not on my machine with the GeForce to show it exactly but similar to the article. https://www.mlc-cad.com/solidworks-help-center/how-to-force-solidworks-to-use-your-graphics-card/

I can't point you directly to it but there is a switch on your video card where you establish priority settings for Chief Architect (or any other particular program). Find that and it may solve it.

It is generally a lot easier in the long run to rotate the plat out of North and keep the plan on the orthogonal directions. Off angle plans are a world of pain.

I don't do this much but noticed that the start point of the wall "S" is the rotation point and will then disconnect from the end point if you adjust with the angle in the dbx. Therefore, make sure the start and end points are on the correct side.

CAD lines as a reference to use the make parallel tool. You might have to temporarily disconnect the wall from the other wall to get it to move properly.

Phew, I thought this was for Passover.

This is done on page 0 of the layout

Ahh, flat top arch! I had my head stuck with a full round arch. More Coffee!

How would I get a horizontal oval window to show properly? I made this shape into a window symbol but it cuts a rectangle into the wall window oval.plan

bath is a room. click on it to select the room and then adjust the floor height to match the floor height of the room adjacent.