rlackore

A sliding door works. You can size it for the opening dimensions.

My approach is to develop the house and a "cartoon" terrain in the PLAN file. The cartoon terrain is an approximation used for perspective images and elevations ('m done trying to develop complex sites using Chief terrain tools - it just isn't worth the frustration). I develop the site plan, grading plan, erosion control plan, etc. in a CAD detail.

Our office uses Microsoft's Azure cloud for all our file storage; OneDrive syncs everything. This works fine, but requires coordination to ensure a cloud file isn't being worked on locally by multiple designers, because Chief's file locking only works locally, not on a cloud file. When a project requires intra-office collaboration, we set up a Sharepoint site and use Teams to manage file access, history, and to check-in/check-out cloud shares. I don't know if Google Drive (or Dropbox) business accounts offer similar functionality. Until Chief supports multiple simultaneous users (probably never), you have to use a kludge.

You can fully customize your title block by editing the content of the Layout Page that is used as the Page Template. Download the reference manual for your version of Chief, and read the chapter on Layouts, paying particular attention to the sections on Layout Page Management, Layout Page Information, and Layout Page and Revision Tables.

What you are seeing is the flooring from the interior room. Garage doors don't have a threshold.

A lot depends on what you're trying to achieve. Is the ceiling flat or vaulted? What's the your style and aesthetic? My advice is to size the false beams as if they were real. This should give you a good starting point for the width and depth. Then play around until you get something that looks "right." To quote Marianne Cusato from her book Get Your House Right: "If you want an authentic design, remember the structural capacities of traditional materials, even when you're using hidden structural elements to support them." "You can avoid many mistakes by remembering the practical reasons behind traditional designs and staying true to your materials."

I'm certain that you can use R. Dyck's solution with a custom macro. I'm not smart enough to provide a macro.

I don't think so - maybe a macro can be used, there are smarter people that may provide a more definitive answer. I use Width and Height columns (which can be formatted for whatever number type you want) instead of a Size column:

IF you're designing in the VILLAGE of East Aurora (the Township may be different), Google search for their zoning code, then it's fairly easy to find: This is a very typical case in zoning laws within the United States, whether the AHJ is a county or municipality.

Rene is referencing an ASCE definition, but maybe it's not everything you need to consider. The code language you've quoted sounds like a Zoning bylaw, and the AHJ may have additional requirements, such as where/how to measure average grade. Ask the client for the code reference; it's a good idea to refer directly to the AHJ codes and bylaws for the area in which you're designing.

Give them the FF elevs you want, then ask them to modify the plan. I'm sure they can get it done. Obviously, it will probably cost money, but maybe that can be offset by the savings in trucked fill.

Yes, the highlighted areas are the swales. My mention that the engineer provided a 2' swale was technically incorrect - I should have said that the engineer provided 2' from the FF to the bottom of the swale. Your revised plan has only 1' from the FF elevation to the bottom of the swale. Your driveway won't need retaining walls if you follow the engineer's grading plan, which requires fill. Lowering the building pad by a couple feet may help you balance the cut/fill calculations (less fill at the driveway and front yard, more cut at the hillside). But, the engineer must have a reason for their design; have you called the engineer?

Your contours are problematic, specifically the 2437 and 2438 near the plan-NW corner of the residence. Make sure the new 2438 is connected at both ends to the existing 2438. Keep in mind that the engineer is providing a 2' deep swale, and he probably did it for a good reason, so I would strive to provide the same when you revise the grading. Also, your revised driveway is going to require some tall retaining walls along both edges, something the engineer's plan avoids by using a bunch of fill. So, pick your poison: an elevated drive, or a canyon drive.

It may be as simple as this: